5 min reading time
•
Updated Recently
•
12 hrs active work
$300 - $800
Tools (18)
Materials (11)
Floor tile(1 each)
~$150
Thin-set mortar(1 each)
~$35
Waterproofing membrane (RedGard)(1 each)
~$45
Cement backer board(1 each)
~$40
Backer board screws(1 each)
~$12
Alkali-resistant mesh tape(1 each)
~$8
Sanded grout(1 each)
~$25
Grout sealer(1 each)
~$15
Tile spacers(1 each)
~$6
Contractor bags(1 each)
~$20
Plastic sheeting(1 each)
~$15
Estimated Total
$300 - $800
Transform a dated or damaged bathroom floor with proper demo, waterproofing, and tile setting. This guide covers the full path from removing old tile through grout and reinstalling the toilet.
Skill level: Intermediate · Typical time: 1–2 weekends · Cost range: $300–800+ depending on bathroom size.
Measure the bathroom floor area. Check the condition of existing tile and subfloor. Plan your tile layout starting from the most visible wall. Mark any fixtures that need to be removed (toilet, vanity if applicable).
Tips
Account for floor height change — adding backer board (~1/2") + tile (~3/8") + thin-set (~1/8") raises the floor ~1". You may need a toilet flange extender and door undercut.
Turn off water supply at the shutoff valve. Flush toilet to empty tank and bowl. Disconnect water supply line. Remove mounting bolts and lift toilet straight up. Stuff a rag in the drain opening to block sewer gases. Set toilet aside on plastic sheeting.
Warning
Wear gloves — toilets are heavy and contain residual water.
Cover vanity, walls, and any fixtures staying in place with plastic sheeting. Tape edges to create dust containment. Remove baseboards carefully if reusing them.
Score grout lines with oscillating multi-tool. Use pry bar and hammer to lift tiles, starting at edges or damaged areas. Work systematically across the floor. Bag debris as you go.
Tips
Start at a damaged tile or doorway threshold — easier entry point.
Warning
Wear N95 mask — tile dust can contain silica.
Safety glasses required — tile shards are sharp.
Pre-1980 homes: test for asbestos before disturbing floor.
With tile removed, inspect the subfloor for soft spots, water damage, or rot. Press firmly with your hand or foot — any give indicates damage. Mark problem areas. Cut out and replace damaged sections with matching plywood.
Warning
If water damage is extensive (>10 sq ft) or mold is visible, consult a professional before proceeding.
Before repairing water damage: Is the water source fixed? Do not proceed until the leak is resolved.
Cut backer board to fit floor area, leaving 1/8" gap at walls. Apply thin-set to subfloor with notched trowel. Set backer board and secure with backer board screws every 8 inches. Tape seams with alkali-resistant mesh tape and thin-set.
Tips
Score and snap backer board — don't use a saw (creates dust).
Apply liquid waterproofing membrane (RedGard or similar) with a paint roller. Cover entire floor including corners and edges. Apply two coats, letting first coat dry until color changes (typically 1-2 hours).
Tips
Roll into corners and up the wall 2-3 inches for complete water barrier.
Dry-fit tiles without mortar to plan layout. Start from the most visible wall and work toward the door. Adjust spacing to avoid thin slivers at walls. Mark reference lines with chalk or pencil.
Tips
Center your layout so cuts at both walls are equal — looks more professional.
Mix thin-set mortar in bucket according to package directions. Use mixing paddle attached to drill. Let slake for 10 minutes, then remix. Consistency should be like peanut butter.
Apply thin-set to floor (and back-butter tiles if using large format). Set tiles along reference lines using spacers. Press and twist slightly to seat. Check level frequently. Work in sections to avoid thin-set skinning over.
Tips
Work in 3-4 sq ft sections so thin-set doesn't dry before tiles are set.
Wipe thin-set off tile faces immediately — it's hard to remove once dry.
Measure and cut tiles for edges, around toilet flange, and any obstacles. Use tile cutter for straight cuts, angle grinder or wet saw for curves and notches. Set cut tiles with thin-set.
Allow thin-set to cure for 24 hours before walking on tiles or grouting. Keep the room ventilated.
Mix sanded grout in bucket according to package directions. Let slake for 10 minutes, then remix. Consistency should be thick but spreadable.
Apply grout with float held at 45° angle, pushing grout into joints. Work diagonally across tiles. Work in 10 sq ft sections. Wait 15-20 minutes, then wipe excess with damp sponge.
Tips
Don't press too hard with sponge — you'll pull grout out of joints.
After grout sets (1-2 hours), polish tiles with dry cloth to remove haze. Let grout cure 24-72 hours before heavy use.
Apply grout sealer with applicator bottle or brush. Cover all grout lines. Let dry per manufacturer directions (usually 2-4 hours). Apply second coat if recommended.
Install new wax ring on toilet flange. Lower toilet onto flange, pressing down firmly. Install mounting bolts and tighten alternately. Reconnect water supply. Turn on water and check for leaks. Caulk base of toilet.
Tips
Always use a new wax ring — never reuse the old one.
Stop tightening bolts when toilet is stable and doesn't rock — over-tightening can crack the porcelain base.
If floor height increased, you may need a toilet flange extender to maintain proper seal height.
Reinstall baseboards with finish nails. Fill nail holes with wood filler. Caulk top edge where baseboard meets wall. Touch up paint if needed.
Remove all protective plastic. Clean tile surface thoroughly. Inspect all grout lines for gaps or voids — fill as needed. Dispose of debris properly.
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