Bathroom Remodel — Full Schluter Tile System

140 hrs active work

$8500 - $13500

Advanced

Tools (52)

Safety Glasses

Work Gloves

Dust Mask

Tape Measure

Adjustable Wrench

Tongue and Groove Pliers

Screwdriver Set

Voltage Tester

Bucket

Hammer

Oscillating Multi-Tool

Pry Bar

HEPA Vacuum

Level

Knee Pads

Stud Finder

Circular Saw

Cordless Drill

Pipe Cutter

Wire Strippers

Needle Nose Pliers

Jigsaw

Utility Knife

Drywall Saw

Drywall Knife 6-inch

Drywall Knife 12-inch

Sanding Block

Mud Pan

Notched Trowel

Grout Float

Rubber Mallet

Multimeter

Grout Sponge

Chalk Line

Wet Tile Saw

Caulk Gun

Basin Wrench

Outlet Tester

Miter Saw

Finish Nailer

Paint Brush

Paint Roller

Towels

Oscillating multi-tool

Rotary hammer with chisel (rental)

Notched trowel (1/2" square notch)

Tile leveling clip system

Wet tile saw

Level (4 ft)

HEPA shop vacuum

Knee pads

N95 respirator

Materials (49)

Lead Test Kit(4 each)

~$30

Contractor Bags(2 pack)

~$36

2x4 Framing Lumber(8 ft)

~$12

Supply Lines(4 each)

~$40

Thread Seal Tape(1 roll)

~$4

KERDI-DRAIN(1 each)

~$125

GFCI Outlet(2 each)

~$36

Cement Backer Board(8 sheet)

~$160

Drywall Screws 1-1/4 inch(1 box)

~$12

Drywall Sheet 1/2-inch(6 sheet)

~$90

Joint Compound(1 gal)

~$18

Drywall Tape(1 roll)

~$8

Sandpaper 120-grit(6 sheet)

~$6

Unmodified Thinset Mortar(3 bag)

~$75

DITRA-HEAT Mat(1 sq_ft)

~$480

KERDI-BAND(6 ft)

~$14

Pebble Mosaic Tile(1 sq_ft)

~$180

Thinset Mortar(1 bag)

~$28

Unsanded Grout(10 lbs)

~$38

Ceramic Floor Tile(1 sq_ft)

~$650

Tile Leveling Clips(3 pack)

~$54

Tile Spacers(2 pack)

~$12

Ceramic Wall Tile(1 sq_ft)

~$380

KERDI-BOARD Panel(2 sheet)

~$90

Schluter JOLLY Trim(15 ft)

~$105

Sanded Grout(15 lbs)

~$45

Silicone Caulk Mold Resistant(1 tube)

~$12

Bathroom Vanity(1 each)

~$800

Bathroom Faucet(2 each)

~$320

DITRA-HEAT Thermostat(2 each)

~$320

Wire Nuts(1 pack)

~$8

Construction Screws 3-inch(1 box)

~$12

Baseboard Molding(1 ft)

~$80

Finish Nails(1 box)

~$15

Paintable Caulk(2 tube)

~$12

Primer(1 gal)

~$22

Interior Paint(1 gal)

~$55

Painter's Tape(1 roll)

~$8

Grout Sealer(1 each)

~$22

Schluter DITRA-HEAT mats + cable(1 each)

~$1200

Schluter KERDI membrane + KERDI-BAND(1 each)

~$450

KERDI-DRAIN assembly(1 each)

~$180

Schluter JOLLY edge trim(1 each)

~$120

Large-format floor tile(1 each)

~$1800

Subway wall tile(1 each)

~$900

Pebble mosaic shower floor(1 each)

~$180

Modified & unmodified thinset(1 each)

~$200

Double vanity (if applicable)(1 each)

~$1200

Permit fees (plumbing + electrical)(1 each)

~$300

Estimated Total

$8500 - $13500

Step-by-Step Plan

1

Lead paint and asbestos assessment

1h

In homes built before 1978, test all painted surfaces for lead using LeadCheck swabs before any demo work. Inspect any 9"×9" floor tiles for asbestos — if found, arrange professional abatement before proceeding. Read EPA RRP safe work practices. Keep all demo debris in sealed contractor bags.

Tools

Safety Glasses

Work Gloves

Dust Mask

Materials

Lead Test Kit

Contractor Bags

Tips

Full demo to studs means disturbing a lot of painted surface — testing first is not optional in pre-1978 homes
Wet-sand and HEPA vacuum if lead is present — no dry sanding

Warning

⚠️ Lead paint and asbestos: proceed only after testing — results change your entire approach to demo
EPA RRP reference: epa.gov/lead/renovation-repair-and-painting-program

2

Obtain permits

This project requires permits for: (1) plumbing rough-in changes — double sink drain and supply, (2) new electrical circuit for DITRA-HEAT heated floor. Visit or call your local building department. Apply early — permit processing varies from 1 day to 3 weeks. Post permit visibly during inspections.

2h

3

Order Schluter materials and plan tile layout

Order all Schluter products together: DITRA-HEAT mats (measure both floor spaces), KERDI membrane (shower walls + 6" ceiling band), KERDI-BAND roll, KERDI-DRAIN, and JOLLY trim. Also order tile now — large format floor, subway wall, and pebble shower floor. Plan tile layout starting from center of the room and working outward. Mark layout lines on subfloor with chalk.

2h

4

Shut off water and demo fixtures

Shut off water at the main or bathroom shutoff valves. Remove toilet (cap flange after removal), vanity cabinet and sink, and shower/tub fixtures. Disconnect all supply and drain lines — cap supply lines with brass caps. Remove light fixtures and exhaust fan. Take photos of all plumbing and electrical locations before covering.

3h

5

Demo existing tile — walls to studs

Use the oscillating multi-tool to score around the perimeter. Chip tile with hammer and chisel starting from a broken piece or edge. Remove all tile and backer board down to the studs. Inspect studs for moisture damage or rot — treat any mold with borax solution and dry completely before proceeding.

4h

6

Demo existing tile — floors

Chip up floor tile with hammer and chisel or oscillating tool with scraper blade. On concrete slab: remove all tile and adhesive residue — the slab must be flat within 1/4" over 10 ft for DITRA-HEAT to work correctly. Grind down any ridges and fill voids with floor-leveling compound. Let leveling compound cure per manufacturer spec.

3h

7

Structural assessment — verify wall is non-load-bearing

Before any framing work, verify the wall containing the new door opening is non-load-bearing. Signs of a load-bearing wall: runs perpendicular to floor joists, located in the center of the house, has walls directly above it. If uncertain, consult a structural engineer ($200–400 consultation). A wrong assumption here is costly.

1h

8

Frame new door rough opening

Mark the new door rough opening on the wall (door width + 2" for jamb on each side, plus 1.5" for header). Cut through the drywall with the oscillating multi-tool. Remove the stud(s) within the opening. Install king studs, trimmer studs, and a doubled 2×4 header across the opening. Toe-nail all framing into place.

3h

9

Close old door opening with framing and backer board

Frame in the old door opening with new studs at 16" OC. Install blocking at the existing header if needed. The new framing will receive cement backer board and tile (if in the tile zone) or moisture-resistant drywall (if outside). Ensure the new framing is flush with the existing studs.

2h

10

Rough-in double sink supply lines

Run hot and cold supply lines to the new double vanity location. In new locations this typically means tapping into existing 1/2" copper or PEX supply runs. Install shutoff valves inside the wall or in the vanity cabinet space at rough-in height (typically 21" AFF). Stub lines out 2" from the finished wall.

4h

11

Rough-in drain lines

On a concrete slab, any change to drain location requires breaking the slab, extending the ABS/PVC drain, and re-pouring. This is complex work — if drains are staying in place, skip this step. If moving drain: mark cut lines carefully, break concrete with hammer drill and cold chisel, extend drain pipe, patch concrete with 3000 psi mix and cure before tiling.

6h

12

Install KERDI-DRAIN rough-in

Set the KERDI-DRAIN in the shower drain location. The drain body is adjustable for floor height — set it so the top of the drain flange will be flush with the finished tile surface (tile thickness + mortar bed + KERDI membrane thickness). Connect to the drain standpipe per local code. The KERDI membrane bonds directly to the drain flange in a later step.

2h

13

Rough-in DITRA-HEAT dedicated circuit

DITRA-HEAT requires a dedicated 120V or 240V circuit (check your mat wattage). Run conduit or cable from the panel to the thermostat location. Install a 1-gang box at thermostat height (48" AFF typical). Run the thermostat sensor wire (supplied with the thermostat) to the floor location — this goes under the mat before tiling.

3h

14

Rough-in exhaust fan circuit and GFCI outlets

Run a circuit to the exhaust fan location in the ceiling — cut the penetration through the ceiling and exterior wall or roof for the duct now, before drywall. Install a 4" or 6" duct. Run a separate circuit for GFCI bathroom outlets. All bathroom outlets must be GFCI-protected per NEC. Install 1-gang boxes at outlet locations.

4h

15

Install cement backer board — shower walls

Cut cement backer board (HardieBacker or Durock) to fit shower walls. Fasten with corrosion-resistant screws at 6" OC along edges and 8" OC in the field. Leave 1/8" gaps at corners and floor. Do not paper-tape the joints — the KERDI membrane waterproofs the entire surface as a sheet, making the backer board joints irrelevant for water resistance.

3h

16

Hang moisture-resistant drywall — non-tile walls

Install moisture-resistant (green board or purple board) drywall on all bathroom walls that will NOT receive tile. Standard areas: above the tile line, behind the door, wall opposite the shower. Cut and fasten with drywall screws at 16" OC into studs. Leave 1/4" gap at the floor to prevent wicking.

2h

17

Tape, mud, and sand non-tile drywall areas

Apply mesh tape to all joints on non-tile drywall. Apply first coat of joint compound with a 6" knife, feathering edges. Let dry 24 hours. Apply second coat with a 12" knife, wider feather. Let dry, sand smooth with 120-grit. Apply skim coat if needed for a smooth finish. The tile-adjacent drywall does not need taping — KERDI transitions will cover it.

4h

18

Mix and spread unmodified thinset — WC floor

Mix unmodified (polymer-free) thinset mortar to a peanut butter consistency. Spread with a 1/4"×3/16" V-notch trowel over the entire WC floor slab, working in sections. Do not use modified thinset for embedding DITRA-HEAT — the polymers prevent proper bonding to the mat fleece.

1h

19

Embed DITRA-HEAT mat — WC floor

Unroll the DITRA-HEAT mat into the wet thinset. Press firmly with a float or grout board to fully embed the fleece backing — 100% contact is required. Cut around obstacles with a utility knife. Leave 1/4" gap at walls. Keep the mat flat and avoid wrinkles. Once embedded, protect mat from foot traffic for 24 hours while thinset cures.

2h

20

Continuity test — DITRA-HEAT mat before tiling

Using a multimeter set to resistance (ohms), measure the resistance of the heating cable lead wires. Record this value — it should match the specification on the mat label within 10%. If the reading is OL (open circuit) the cable is damaged and must be replaced before tiling. This test must be done BEFORE tiling over the mat.

30m

21

Embed DITRA-HEAT mat — washroom floor

Repeat the DITRA-HEAT embedding process for the washroom/main bathroom floor space. Spread unmodified thinset with V-notch trowel, embed mat with full fleece contact, cut to fit. Leave 1/4" gap at all walls. Keep free of foot traffic for 24 hours.

2h

22

Continuity test — washroom DITRA-HEAT mat

Repeat the multimeter continuity/resistance test on the washroom mat before any tile is set. Record the resistance value alongside the WC floor reading. Tag each mat's lead wires clearly so you know which connects to which thermostat.

20m

23

Apply KERDI-BAND to all corners and seams

Using unmodified thinset, embed KERDI-BAND (waterproofing strip) into all inside corners where walls meet floor, where walls meet each other, and at all pipe penetrations. The band should extend 2" onto each surface. Use a margin trowel to spread thinset thin on both sides of the corner, press the band firmly, and smooth flat. No air pockets.

2h

24

Apply KERDI sheet membrane — shower walls

Cut KERDI sheets to fit each shower wall section. Spread unmodified thinset on the cement board with a 1/4"×3/16" V-notch trowel. Press the KERDI sheet firmly into the thinset — 100% contact, no air bubbles. Overlap seams 2" and embed in thinset. Continue up to at least 6" above the shower head height. Bond KERDI sheet to the top flange of the KERDI-DRAIN.

4h

25

Flood test — 24-hour shower pan waterproofing verification

Before any tile is set in the shower, perform a flood test: plug the KERDI-DRAIN with a test plug, fill the shower pan to the top of the curb (or 2" depth minimum), and mark the water level with tape. Leave for 24 hours minimum. The level must not drop more than 1/4" (accounting for evaporation). Any drop indicates a leak — find it and fix it before tiling.

30m

26

Set pebble mosaic shower floor tile

Spread modified thinset on the shower floor in 2 sq ft sections. Back-butter each mesh sheet of pebble mosaic as well. Press sheets firmly and check that individual stones are fully embedded — use a grout float to press without breaking the stones. Maintain the 1/4" per foot slope toward the drain throughout — check with a level. Allow 24-hour cure.

3h

27

Grout shower floor — pebble mosaic

Mix unsanded grout to a thick peanut butter consistency. Apply liberally over the pebble mosaic with a grout float — work it into all voids between stones. The irregular surface requires pushing grout into every gap. Diagonal strokes help. After 15–20 minutes, wipe off excess with a damp grout sponge. Rinse sponge frequently.

2h

28

Snap tile layout lines

Find the center of each floor space. Snap two perpendicular chalk lines through the center. Dry-lay one row of tile in each direction from center to wall to check the cut size at the walls — avoid cuts smaller than half a tile at visible edges. Adjust center point if needed and re-snap. Mark all layout lines clearly.

1h

29

Set large format floor tile — both spaces

Mix modified thinset for tile-over-DITRA-HEAT. Spread with a 1/2"×1/2" square-notch trowel (large format requires deeper notch). Back-butter each tile as well (100% coverage required in wet areas). Set each tile and apply a tile leveling clip system to prevent lippage between tiles. Use plastic spacers for consistent grout joints. Check level and adjust with mallet. Work in quadrants from center to walls.

6h

30

Mark and preserve floor movement joints for silicone

Movement joints (filled with silicone caulk, never grout) are required at: all wall-to-floor transitions, all changes in tile plane direction, and every 20–25 ft in open areas per TCNA guidelines. These joints allow tile to expand and contract without cracking. Mark them with tape and keep them clear of thinset during installation.

30m

31

Set subway tile — shower surround walls

Spread modified thinset on the KERDI membrane with a 3/16"×5/32" V-notch trowel (subway tile uses a smaller notch than floor tile). Work from a level reference line 4–6" above the tub/shower floor. Install full rows, working upward. Cut perimeter tiles with the wet saw. Use plastic spacers for consistent 1/16" to 1/8" grout joints.

6h

32

Frame and tile shower niche

Frame the niche box between studs using 2×4 blocking — typical size is 12"×24" or 24"×12". Line the interior of the niche with KERDI-BOARD panels (waterproof substrate) and apply KERDI-BAND to all interior corners. Tile the interior surfaces with your subway tile (or accent tile) and install a JOLLY trim edge around the perimeter opening. Allow 24 hours cure.

3h

33

Grout large format floors — sanded grout

Mix sanded grout for floor joints (1/4" and wider). Apply with a grout float at a 45° angle to the joint, working the grout diagonally across the tile to pack the joints. After 15–20 minutes, wipe with a barely-damp sponge in circular motions. Rinse sponge frequently. Avoid wiping along the joint direction — drags grout out. Haze will appear — buff off with a dry cloth after 1 hour.

3h

34

Grout wall and shower subway tile — unsanded grout

Mix unsanded grout for subway tile joints (1/16"–1/8" joints). Apply with a grout float diagonally, packing joints fully. Wipe off excess with a damp sponge after 15 minutes. Buff haze with a clean cloth. Leave all movement joints (corners, floor-to-wall transitions) open — these receive silicone caulk in the next step.

3h

35

Install Schluter JOLLY trim and fill movement joints with silicone

Install JOLLY trim at all exposed tile edges — doorway transitions, wall ends, and any tile edge not meeting another surface. Cut JOLLY with a tin snip or miter saw (metal blade). Embed in thinset. Fill all movement joints (floor-to-wall, inside shower corners, wall-to-ceiling) with mold-resistant silicone caulk. Smooth with a wet finger. Allow 24-hour cure before wetting.

2h

36

Install double vanity cabinet

Find studs in the vanity wall. Set the vanity cabinet in place and shim level and plumb. Secure to the wall studs with 3-inch screws through the cabinet back rail. Install the countertop per manufacturer instructions. Mark and cut the backsplash tile or apply the Schluter trim profile where the vanity top meets the wall.

2h

37

Connect double sink supply and drain plumbing

Connect the two sink faucets to the supply stub-outs inside the vanity cabinet. Use braided stainless supply lines with 1/2" fittings. Install P-traps on both sink drains and connect to the drain rough-in. Test both sinks for leaks: turn on full water pressure and inspect all connections under the cabinet. Dry the cabinet floor and inspect again after 10 minutes.

2h

38

Install toilet

Set a new wax ring on the flange. Lower the toilet straight down onto the flange bolts — do not slide or twist after it contacts the wax. Hand-tighten the nuts, then snug with a wrench (do not over-tighten — cracks the porcelain base). Connect supply line. Turn on water, let tank fill, flush 3 times, and inspect for leaks at the base and supply connection.

2h

39

Install DITRA-HEAT thermostat and commission heat

Mount the thermostat at the junction box. Connect the heating cable leads and the floor sensor probe per the thermostat wiring diagram. Restore power at the breaker. Perform the final continuity test with the multimeter (resistance should still match pre-tile reading). Program the thermostat and run the heating system at lowest setting for 1 hour — verify warm floor.

2h

40

Install exhaust fan, GFCI outlets, and light fixture

Install the exhaust fan housing in the ceiling cutout — connect to the duct you ran in Phase 5 and to the circuit wire. Install GFCI outlets in all wall boxes — use tamper-resistant outlets. Install the vanity light fixture above the mirror. Restore power at the breaker and test all circuits: exhaust fan on/off, outlets (plug in a lamp), light fixture, GFCI test/reset button.

2h

41

Hang new door — level, plumb, and secure

Set the pre-hung door unit in the rough opening. Shim at hinge locations and at the latch side until the door is perfectly plumb and level — the reveal gap between door and frame should be consistent (1/8") all around. Drive 3-inch screws through the jamb and shims into the king studs. Test swing and adjust shims until the door latches cleanly without force.

2h

42

Install door casing and baseboard

Cut and install door casing on both sides of the new door opening — miter the head casing at 45° to meet the side casings. Nail into the jamb and into the stud. Install baseboard around the bathroom perimeter. Leave 1/4" reveal gap at the floor for any threshold or transition. Fill nail holes and caulk all casing joints with paintable caulk.

3h

43

Prime and paint non-tiled walls

Apply a coat of primer to all drywall surfaces that will be painted. Let dry per manufacturer spec (typically 2–4 hours). Apply two coats of interior paint in satin or semi-gloss finish — semi-gloss is recommended for bathrooms due to moisture resistance and cleanability. Cut in at the tile line with a brush before rolling the field.

3h

44

Seal all grout

Once grout is fully cured (72 hours minimum), apply a penetrating grout sealer to all grout joints on floor and shower walls. Use the applicator tip to run sealer along each joint. Wipe any excess off tile face within 3–5 minutes and buff with a dry cloth. Apply a second coat if specified on the label.

1h

45

Install accessories and final walkthrough

Install towel bars, toilet paper holder, shower curtain rod (if applicable), mirrors, and any remaining hardware. Test all plumbing connections one final time — run both sinks at full pressure simultaneously. Flush toilet. Run the shower for 5 minutes and check for leaks at the KERDI-DRAIN, at the base of the shower walls, and under the vanity. Energize DITRA-HEAT at working temperature and verify both thermostats respond.

2h