16 min reading time
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30 hrs active work
$2500 - $8000
Tools (30)
Materials (28)
Lead Test Kit(1 each)
~$15
Plastic Sheeting 6-mil(1 roll)
~$15
Cement Backer Board(4 sheet)
~$60
Thinset Mortar(2 bag)
~$50
Waterproofing Membrane(1 gal)
~$45
Ceramic Floor Tile(46 sq_ft)
~$400
Tile Spacers(3 pack)
~$15
Sanded Grout(10 lbs)
~$20
Ceramic Wall Tile(96 sq_ft)
~$600
Unsanded Grout(10 lbs)
~$18
Bathroom Vanity(1 each)
~$600
Supply Lines(2 each)
~$16
Thread Seal Tape(1 roll)
~$3
Bathroom Faucet(1 each)
~$120
Plumbers Putty(1 each)
~$5
Silicone Caulk Mold Resistant(2 tube)
~$18
Painter's Tape(1 roll)
~$5
Grout Sealer(1 each)
~$18
Porcelain floor tile (~50 sq ft + 10% waste)(1 each)
~$450
Ceramic wall tile (~100 sq ft + waste)(1 each)
~$600
Cement backer board(1 each)
~$120
Thinset mortar(1 each)
~$75
RedGard waterproofing membrane(1 each)
~$45
Sanded and unsanded grout(1 each)
~$40
Bathroom vanity with top(1 each)
~$600
Bathroom faucet(1 each)
~$120
Mold-resistant silicone caulk(1 each)
~$18
Lead/asbestos test kits(1 each)
~$30
Estimated Total
$2500 - $8000
Complete bathroom refresh: demo old tile, inspect subfloor, install cement backer and waterproofing, set new floor and tub surround tile, and install a new vanity. Plan for 2–4 weekends.
Skill level: Intermediate · Typical time: 30+ hours · Cost range: $2,500–8,000.
Before any demolition, test painted surfaces for lead and grout/tile mastic for asbestos using EPA-approved test kits. If home was built before 1978, this step is non-negotiable. Positive results require professional abatement before proceeding.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Test multiple surfaces: painted walls, old caulk, tile adhesive/mastic
Swab tests are inexpensive ($10–25) and available at hardware stores (3M LeadCheck, First Alert)
For asbestos suspicion, collect a small sample in a sealed bag and send to a certified lab (~$30)
Document all test results with photos and date
Warning
⚠️ STOP if lead test is positive — do not sand or demo until EPA RRP-certified contractor assesses
⚠️ STOP if asbestos is confirmed — do not disturb tile or mastic, hire licensed abatement
⚠️ Pre-1978 pink or black tile mastic is often asbestos-containing — treat as positive until tested
Measure the bathroom floor and tub surround. Sketch a tile layout to minimize cuts at focal points. Check local permit requirements (vanity swap typically exempt; full tile demo may require one in some jurisdictions). Order tile with 10% overage for cuts and breakage.
Tools
Tips
For a 5×8 floor: order ~50 sq ft (40 sq ft area + 10% = 44 sq ft, round up)
For a 3-wall tub surround (60"×32" tub, 72" height): order ~100 sq ft wall tile
Tile selection: porcelain is more durable than ceramic for floors; both fine for walls
Center your tile layout: measure both directions and find center point
Order all tile from same dye lot to avoid color variation
Warning
Mixing tile from different lots causes visible color mismatch — order everything at once
Avoid very large format tile (over 12×24) on a first bathroom project — harder to level
Hang plastic sheeting over the bathroom doorway to contain tile dust. Lay drop cloths over the toilet and any surfaces not being demolished. Set up a HEPA shop vacuum for continuous dust collection during demo. Pre-1978 homes: wear N100 respirator throughout all demo phases.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Run a box fan in the window to create negative pressure (air flowing out, not in)
Seal HVAC vents with tape and plastic to prevent dust spread
Tile demo is one of the dustiest DIY tasks — over-prepare on containment
Warning
⚠️ Pre-1978 homes: N100 respirator is mandatory, not optional, for all demo
Tile chips are razor-sharp — heavy work gloves and safety glasses required
Turn off water supply at the shutoff valves under the sink. Disconnect the supply lines and drain. Remove the vanity cabinet. Disconnect the toilet if it is near the tile work area. Cap supply lines with compression caps or turn off at main.
Tools
Tips
Take photos of all plumbing connections before disconnecting
Have a bucket and towels ready — supply lines hold residual water
Label supply lines (hot/cold) with tape before removing
If shutoffs are old gate valves that won't close fully, turn off at main
Warning
Always confirm water is off before disconnecting supply lines
Do not over-tighten old shutoff valves — they can break
Use a hammer and cold chisel (or oscillating tool) to break up and remove the existing floor tile. Work from a corner inward. Angle the chisel under tile edges to lever them up. Remove all tile, thinset, and mastic down to the subfloor.
Tools
Tips
Start at a grout joint — insert chisel and strike to pop tile free
A floor scraper (rental) speeds up mastic removal significantly
Bag tile debris immediately — chunks are heavy and sharp
Keep one tile as a reference for the tile store if you want to match (unlikely but useful)
Warning
⚠️ Watch for subfloor damage as you demo — mark any soft or damaged spots
⚠️ Pre-1978 black mastic (from old vinyl tile) is likely asbestos — do not sand or grind it
Wear knee pads — floor demo is hard on knees
Remove all wall tile from the tub surround. Old tile is often set in a thick mortar bed — expect to remove drywall or cement board behind it. Tap the wall to find hollow spots. Cut the perimeter with a utility knife, then remove tile and backing together.
Tools
Tips
Original 1960s–70s tile is usually set in a 3/4" mortar bed — remove the whole assembly
Cut drywall/backing back to the nearest studs for a clean surface to rebuild on
Once the old surface is out, check studs for mold or rot — address before closing up
If you find original horsehair plaster, remove completely — it will not bond to thinset
Warning
⚠️ Check for mold on studs and the back of removed materials — stop and remediate if extensive
⚠️ Confirm no wires or pipes run in the tub wall cavity before cutting deep
This is when you may find previous water damage — document and assess before proceeding
With demo complete, inspect the subfloor for soft spots, rot, squeaks, and deflection. Press firmly in a grid pattern — any give or sponginess indicates rot. Probe suspicious areas with a screwdriver. Cut out and sister damaged sections before tiling.
Tools
Tips
Walk the entire subfloor — feel for bounce (deflection must be <1/360 of span for tile)
Screw down any squeaky areas (face-screw into joists with 2" screws)
If subfloor is under 3/4" thick, add a layer of 1/4" or 3/8" underlayment plywood
Sweep and vacuum all debris — even small debris under backer board causes tile to crack
Warning
⚠️ Do NOT tile over a soft or bouncy subfloor — tile will crack within months
If water damage has reached the joists, call a pro — structural repair changes the timeline
Cut HardieBacker or Durock to fit the floor, leaving a 1/8" gap at walls. Apply thinset to the subfloor in a thin layer with the flat side of the trowel, then comb with the notched side. Press backer board into thinset, stagger joints from subfloor seams, and fasten with 1-1/4" backer board screws every 6" along edges and 8" in the field.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Score-and-snap cement board with a scoring tool — do not use a wood saw (dulls blades instantly)
Stagger joints with the subfloor seams — never stack joints
Tape the seams with alkali-resistant mesh tape and thinset before tiling
Cement board screws have a special head — use a dimpler bit to drive flush
Warning
⚠️ Do not skip the thinset layer under backer board — it prevents hollow spots that crack tile
Backer board does not prevent moisture from reaching the subfloor — waterproofing is a separate step
Install cement backer board on all three tub surround walls. Leave a 1/8" gap above the tub ledge (this joint gets caulked, not tiled over). Fasten with backer board screws into studs. Apply alkali-resistant mesh tape to all seams.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Leave the 1/8" gap at the tub line — this critical joint flexes as the tub fills with water
The tub line is ALWAYS caulk, never grout — tile grout cracks here within one season
Use moisture-resistant drywall (greenboard) or cement board above the wet zone (above 72")
Run a bead of silicone along the tub ledge before installing backer board for extra waterproofing
Warning
⚠️ Do NOT use regular drywall in the wet zone — it will fail within months
⚠️ The gap at the tub line is intentional — do not fill it with thinset or caulk yet
Roll or brush RedGard (or equivalent liquid waterproofing membrane) onto all backer board seams, corners, and the first coat over the entire surround. Apply a second coat once the first is dry (color changes from pink to deep red). Embed mesh tape in the first coat at all seams and corners.
Tools
Materials
Tips
RedGard changes color from pink to red as it dries — do not apply second coat until fully red
Embed 4" alkali-resistant mesh tape into wet membrane at all seams and inside corners
Apply a third coat to corners and seams for extra protection
Minimum dry film thickness is 30 mils — apply thick, not thin
Warning
⚠️ Waterproofing is the most important step — a failed surround can cause thousands in hidden damage
Do not tile until membrane is fully cured per manufacturer instructions (typically 24 hours)
Snap chalk lines to find the center of the floor. Do a full dry layout (no thinset) to verify the pattern, identify cut positions, and confirm tile size works with the space. Adjust center lines if needed to avoid small slivers at visible edges.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Start from the doorway threshold — this is what guests see first
Aim for cuts no smaller than half a tile at walls
Mark the starting point with a pencil X on the backer board
Photograph the dry layout before pulling up tiles
Warning
Never start in a corner — rooms are never square and cuts will look off
Mix thinset to a peanut-butter consistency. Use the flat side of the notched trowel to press thinset into the backer board (key coat), then comb ridges with the notched side. Set tile with a slight twisting press. Use rubber mallet to tap level. Check alignment and level frequently. Place spacers at every joint.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Back-butter large format tiles (over 12"×12") in addition to troweling the floor
95%+ coverage rule: lift a just-set tile to verify thinset covers at least 95% of the back
Work in sections of 3–4 sq ft — thinset skins over in 20–30 minutes
Pull a spacer and check alignment every 4–5 tiles before they set
When to call a pro: if subfloor deflection is visible in the tile — stop and reassess
Warning
⚠️ Avoid walking on set tile for 24 hours minimum (48 hours for heavy traffic)
Do not use more thinset than you can set in 20 minutes — it will harden in the bucket
Cuts must be made with a wet tile saw — a snap cutter chips porcelain unpredictably
After thinset cures 24 hours, remove all spacers. Mix sanded grout (for joints 1/8" or wider) to a thick paste. Apply with a grout float held at 45° to force grout into joints. Work in 10 sq ft sections. Remove excess with the float held almost vertical. Wait 20–30 minutes, then wipe with a damp sponge in circular motions. Buff haze with a dry cloth.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Remove spacers before grouting — do not grout over them
Grout haze sets fast — do not let it dry on tile surface for more than 30 minutes
For first pass: float at 45°. For cleanup: angle near 90° to scrape excess back into bucket
Dampen tile before grouting if very absorbent to prevent suck-out
The sponge must be almost dry — a wet sponge washes grout out of joints
Warning
⚠️ Do not grout the tub line — that joint is always silicone caulk
⚠️ Do not grout perimeter floor-to-wall joints — those flex with the house and should be caulked
Grout dust — wear a dust mask when mixing dry grout
Snap a level horizontal line at a comfortable working height (typically one tile up from tub ledge). Dry-fit the layout on the back wall first, then side walls. Center the pattern on the most visible wall. Plan cuts so that the tub ledge row is at least 2/3 of a tile tall.
Tools
Tips
Level is critical on walls — even a 1/16" error per row becomes 3/4" off over 12 rows
The first horizontal course (just above tub line) determines everything above it
Use a story pole (a wood stick with tile-height marks) to plan vertical layout
Plan for a bullnose or trim tile at all exposed edge sides
Warning
Do not use the tub ledge as your level reference — tubs are never perfectly level
Apply thinset to the wall with the notched trowel (ridges are vertical for better coverage on walls). Set tile starting at the bottom full course, working upward and across. Back-butter each tile for wall application. Use spacers. Save the bottom cut row for last — cut to the tub ledge gap.
Tools
Materials
Tips
On walls, notch ridges vertically — tile slides less and coverage is better
Work the back wall first, then side walls — this hides the side wall cuts behind the back wall field
Tile should not sit directly on the tub ledge — maintain the 1/8" caulk joint gap
Tie lines across the back wall with level checks every 3 rows
When to call a pro: if the wall is badly out of plumb (over 1/4" in 8 feet), a pro can backfill to correct
Warning
⚠️ Maintain the 1/8" gap at the tub line — do not let tile touch the tub
Wall tile is lighter than floor tile but must still have 95%+ thinset coverage in wet areas
Do not rest full weight on set wall tile to adjust position — push tiles in with palm pressure
Use unsanded grout for wall tile (joints under 1/8"). Apply with grout float, forcing grout deep into joints. Work in 10 sq ft sections. Remove excess and haze with a damp sponge. Allow 30 minutes then buff with a dry cloth. Do NOT grout the tub ledge joint, inside corners, or any change-of-plane joint.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Unsanded grout for wall tile — sanded grout scratches glazed tile surfaces
Inside corners and change-of-plane joints (wall-to-wall, wall-to-floor) always get caulk, not grout
A clean grout job depends on the sponge being almost dry — wring out thoroughly
Pre-damp walls before grouting glossy tile to prevent suck-out
Warning
⚠️ Do NOT grout the tub line joint — this is the most common beginner mistake
⚠️ Do NOT grout inside corners — they flex and will crack grout within months
Grout at tub line will crack within one winter cycle — use silicone caulk there always
Set the new vanity in position. Verify level (shim if needed). Attach to wall through back panel into studs. Connect hot and cold supply lines (hot on left) finger-tight then 1/4 turn with wrench. Connect drain P-trap. Turn water on slowly, check all connections for drips. Run water for 5 minutes and recheck.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Vanity must be level — most come with adjustable legs or you can shim the base
Connect supply lines hand-tight first, then one-quarter turn wrench-tight — over-tightening cracks fittings
Use thread seal tape (Teflon) on threaded connections, not compression fittings
The P-trap must have a 1/4" per foot downslope to the drain — check with a level
If drain height doesn't line up, get an offset P-trap or extension
Warning
Confirm water is still off before connecting supply lines
Do not use old supply lines from the previous vanity — replace with new braided stainless
Install faucet into vanity top per manufacturer instructions. Apply plumber's putty or silicone under the drain flange (check faucet instructions — some require silicone not putty). Tighten drain from below with a drain wrench. Attach pop-up drain linkage rod and stopper. Test drain operation.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Install faucet before setting the vanity top if possible — much easier access
Avoid plumber's putty on marble or stone vanity tops — use clear silicone instead
Pop-up drain assembly: the lift rod connects to a pivot rod under the sink — adjust until smooth
Check that drain strainer is centered and the putty seal is complete before tightening
Warning
Test the drain thoroughly before considering the project done
A loose drain seal will cause a slow leak under the vanity — confirm compression is solid
Apply mold-resistant silicone caulk to: (1) the tub ledge joint, (2) all inside corner joints where two tile walls meet, (3) around the tub spout, showerhead, and any fixture trim. Tape the joint, apply caulk, smooth with a wet finger or caulk tool, remove tape before caulk skins.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Use painter's tape to get clean caulk lines — apply on both sides of the joint
Remove tape while caulk is still wet — pulling it off after curing tears the bead
Wet your finger with dish soap before smoothing — silicone won't stick to soapy skin
Fill the tub with water before caulking the tub line — tub sinks under weight and opens the joint
Allow 24 hours cure before water contact (read label — some silicone needs 48 hours)
Warning
⚠️ Use only mold-resistant silicone in the bathroom — standard caulk molds within months
⚠️ The tub line must be caulk, not grout — this is the most failure-prone joint in any bathroom
Do not use tub after caulking until fully cured (24–48 hours per label)
Once grout is fully cured (72 hours minimum), apply a penetrating grout sealer to all grout joints on floor and walls. Use the applicator tip to run sealer along joints. Wipe excess off tile face within 3–5 minutes. Buff with a dry cloth. Apply a second coat if specified.
Tools
Materials
Tips
Test a small area first — if sealer beads on the grout surface, grout is not ready
Sealer protects against staining and moisture absorption — especially important on the floor
Re-seal grout annually in high-use bathrooms
Tile itself usually does not need sealing (unless natural stone — seal stone tiles too)
Warning
Do not seal before grout is fully cured — sealer can trap moisture and cause efflorescence
Ventilate well — sealer fumes are strong
Reinstall toilet tank lid, towel bars, toilet paper holder, and any other accessories. Clean all tile thoroughly with a pH-neutral cleaner (not vinegar — it etches grout). Remove all plastic sheeting and dust containment. Test all fixtures for leaks. Inspect grout and caulk lines for gaps.
Tools
Tips
Use a grout saw to touch up any voids in the grout lines before they are sealed
A final check: fill the tub, let it sit 10 minutes, drain and check under vanity and around tub for drips
pH-neutral tile cleaner protects grout sealer — avoid bleach cleaners for at least 30 days
Take photos for insurance records and future reference
Warning
Do not use acid-based cleaners (vinegar, lime remover) on freshly grouted tile — etches the surface
Run the bathroom exhaust fan continuously for 48–72 hours after completion to aid grout and caulk curing. Do not allow prolonged moisture (steam showers) for 7 days. Light use of the shower after 48 hours is acceptable if all caulk has cured.
Tips
If no exhaust fan exists, run a box fan in the window in exhaust mode
Cold temperatures (under 50°F) slow curing — keep bathroom heated during cure period
The bathroom will smell like grout and silicone for a few days — this is normal
Warning
Avoid steam showers for the first 7 days — moisture compromises curing grout and caulk
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